Benjamin Leroux Hauts Jarrons, Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru, France

本杰明·勒胡酒莊奧雅龍（薩維尼一級園）紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：2977

The 2015 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Jarrons has a more introspective bouquet than the village cru, adorned with dark cherry and bergamot scents, nicely integrated oak lending a sense of aromatic seamlessness. The palate is very fine, silky smooth with well-judged acidity, the 25% whole bunch fruit barely noticeable on the seductive finish. What a gorgeous Savigny-lès-Beaune!

The 2014 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Jarrons has dark berry, wild hedgerow and veins of cassis. The palate is medium-bodied and ripe with quite firm tannin that frame the quite lovely, brambly red berry fruit with just a dash of black pepper towards the finish. This is very fine.

The 2013 Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Jarrons, one of the few vineyards that was not impacted by hail, has a slightly tinny bouquet that is missing a little delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, a little rustic in style but with a pleasant blackberry and bilberry finish.

From sandy soils, the 2012 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Jarrons has a fuller, more cohesive bouquet than the Village Cru. The palate is bright and energetic with crisp, taut, grainy tannins and plenty of raspberry and wild strawberry fruit in the brisk finish. Fine. There is one vigneron pleased about the late running of the 2013 harvest more than any other – Benjamin Leroux. “I had my third baby two weeks ago,” he reveals, though he looks in unnaturally fine fettle given the sleepless nights he must surely be enduring. I met Benjamin at his winery located just off the Beaune ring road opposite Albert Bichot and Domaine des Croix. Here he vinifies all his negociant wines that are labeled under his name, and when he is not there, you will probably find him down in Domaine Comte Armand, where he has been responsible for recent vintages. He shares the facility with Nicolas Rossignol, whose wines I tasted directly afterwards. Those wishing to glean more information on Leroux’s background should peruse the article I wrote in the August issue of The Wine Advocate concerning Clos des Epeneaux. He told me that he will bottle his 2012s relatively early this year and, in fact, several were already under cork. Like practically everyone, his crops are depleted in 2012 depending upon the area, up to 80% in the worst affected by frost and hail. The samples that I tasted were either in bottle (wines with single figure scores) or in barrel just after malo-lactic but before racking (given by banded scores). Generally, these constituted an outstanding set of wines, albeit often in miniscule quantities, which is why some of the cuvees are exclusive to certain markets (for example, you will have to go to Hong Kong to find his elusive Clos Saint Denis.) While the grand crus could stand shoulder-to-shoulder with many growers, readers should check out some of his over-performing Village and Premier Crus, particularly the former that were bolstered by the blending of the latter due to depletion of crop. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

The 2010 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Jarrons comes across as gracious and supple. Rose petals, red cherries and licorice are some of the nuances that are woven together in this silky, gracious Savigny. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. I continue to be impressed with the wines Benjamin Leroux is making under his own label. Leroux sources fruit from a number of top vineyards in the region. The wines are made in a facility Leroux shares with Nicolas Rossignol in the center of town. Unfortunately the 2010 Bonnes-Mares was too reduced to evaluate. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, imported by Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803, C’Est Vin, District of Columbia; tel. (703) 243-3559, Scott Paul Wines, Oregon; tel. (503) 852-7300, Wines Unlimited, Louisiana; tel. (504) 897-0191