Kuhling-Gillot Gemischter Satz Gewurztraminer Riesling Trocken Qvinterra

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The Kuhling-Gillot 2010 Gemischter Satz Gewurztraminer-Riesling trocken Qvinterra represents a bottling under the estate’s Qvinterra label (which encompasses inter alia nearly all of this domaine’s non-Riesling wines) of their old mixed planting in the Niersteiner Pettenthal. The tiny volume of Gewurztraminer and labor intensiveness of marking and separately picking those vines may well have figured in the family’s decision to no longer bottle a separate mono-cepage, but there are other reasons for favoring this blend: it’s a traditional one whose synergy is proven; it moderates alcohol, which was otherwise routinely reaching 14% and above in the pure Gewurztraminer, even when finished off-dry; and it offers a picture of the vineyard “as it grew.” What’s more – and I hope I won’t be thought catty in stating this – the difference in textural richness, generosity of fruit, and sheer, colorful diversity made by the inclusion of fruit from ancient-vines Gewurztraminer when this field blend is set beside the estate’s adamant, austere style of pure-Riesling cru, speaks volumes, to me at least. Celery root, litchi, plus hints of caraway, peppermint, and black pepper scent and flavor a wine that picks up Pettenthal-typical, zesty tangerine as well as vivacity and a back end sense of things stony and smoky by way of its Riesling. Despite harboring 13.5% alcohol, this displays a genuine sense of lift in its long, involved finish. Hat’s off to the team here for a smart decision, and let’s hope some of this comes to the States where a significant number of readers can play around with it at table over the next half dozen (perhaps more) years. In Carolin Gillot’s absence I tasted with her ever-insightful father (and one of Rheinhessen’s foremost qualitative pioneers) Roland Gillot, who relates that the estate didn’t begin picking Riesling until October 11, and finished November 3, “by which time,” he insists, “most of our neighbors had already finished their harvests. But in my long experience, if you wait, at some point stable weather will arrive. I’m also convinced from experience that the organically farmed vineyards (like his family’s) have many fewer problems in a difficult year like 2010, when what botrytis we did get was pure,” i.e. as opposed to mingled with Penicillium or engendering acetification. (I tasted neither the latest generic Kuhling-Gillot estate Riesling nor, especially regrettably, a dry Scheurebe, because the latter – in perhaps a good sign for this nowadays generally too little-loved grape – had sold out without remnant by the time of my September visit.)Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799