The 1994 and 1995 Chardonnay offerings I tasted are similar. The 1994 Chardonnay Hillside Estate, made from the estate's own fruit, reveals a subtle, pineapple/pear-scented nose, medium-bodied, crisp, tart flavors, and a clean finish. Winemaker/consultant Nils Venge has been brought in to try and flesh out these wines which have had a tendency to be too tannic and tough-textured. The Keenan wines, made from their vineyards on Spring Mountain, have always been ambitiously made, but largely without the mid-palate and intensity I would have expected from the lofty prices. The group of wines reviewed in this segment looks to be the finest Keenan offerings I have tasted.How encouraging it is to see this winery improve its quality.Tel. (707) 963-9177; Fax (707) 963-8209
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