Every once in a while, Denis Horton’s winery surprises me with a wine that makes me wish both he and Virginia could be more consistent. His 1993 Viognier, a superbly aromatic and expressive effort, did that to me a decade ago, and now his 2002 Petit Manseng has done it again. A blend of 76% Petit Manseng (a varietal mostly known for producing Jurancon) and 24% Viognier, it regales the taster’s nose with its peppery, spicy aromas. Medium-bodied, lush, and wonderfully flavorful, it displays lovely mouth-feel and loads of sweet spices that are vaguely reminiscent of a well-made, ripe Jurancon. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.Tel. (800) 829-4633 www.hvwine.com
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