Familie Gesellmann 'Opus Eximium', Mittelburgenland, Austria

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A blend of Blaufrankisch, St. Laurent, and Zweigelt from old vines now in its 19th installment (at one time, some Cabernet was included), the 2006 Opus Eximium No. 19 brings together tart mulberry and blackberry with tart dried cherries and dusted with cardamom and salt. Peaty, peppery notes further compliment the dark fruit character. There is no superficial oak character here from the wines 17 months in barrique (one third new), but what concerns me is a tendency – despite tannins of evident fine-grain – for the wine to dry out a bit on the finish. Albert Gesellmann – much influenced by the time he spent in California and South Africa in the mid-1990s – makes no apologies for wanting to produce powerful red wines. I have found a few of those that receive accolades within Austria somewhat overwrought and superficially sweet and oaky, although there is no question that the underlying material is concentrated. The Gesellmanns were among Burgenland’s pioneers with Cabernet and Merlot – some of their Bordelaise vines having recently reached a 25th birthday – but in recent years interest here as elsewhere in Mittelburgenland has been focused more on the traditional Blaufrankisch, on blends with Zweigelt and St. Laurent, and on Pinot Noir. The Gesellmanns are not among those with experimental plots of Syrah, although to taste some of their wines, you might believe otherwise.Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.