Erath Estate Selection Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, USA

艾拉斯莊園精選黑皮諾干紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：7133

Medium ruby-purple in the glass, the 2016 Pinot Noir Estate Selection offers crushed cranberries, blueberries and Cran-Apple scents with notes of violet, prosciutto, earth, oolong and cola. The medium-bodied palate is silky with loads of pure fruits and a classy frame of new oak spice, finishing long and fresh. This aged 15 months in 33% new French oak. 5,801 cases produced.

Pale to medium ruby-purple, the 2015 Pinot Noir Estate Selection has a nose of red cherry pie and strawberry/raspberry jam laced with nutmeg, cinnamon and pretty floral notes with suggestions of forest floor. Light to medium-bodied, it has good concentration of bright red and black fruit in the mouth and a silky texture with lots of spicy accents, very soft, grainy tannins and juicy acidity, finishing long with sweet fruit. 5,435 cases produced.

The 2012 Pinot Noir Estate Selection comes from different sites in the Willamette Valley and sees 12 months in 40% new French oak. It has an uncomplicated, blackberry and raspberry-scented bouquet with touches of violet, the palate medium-bodied, with "stringy" tannin and a slight sourness coming through on the finish.

Erath’s 2011 Pinot Noir Estate Selection displays what for this vintage is a surprisingly cooked sense of dark berries, though one that retains ample primary juiciness. An aura of decadent autumnal foliage and forest floor lends a note of surprising evolution and hints of salted caramel and vanilla in a modestly persistent finish point toward the 40% of new barrels employed. I would be inclined to drink this by 2016. Veteran vintner Gary Horner showed me a significant share of 2011 vintage releases from Erath, though I did not have time to taste by any means all (and we focused exclusively on Pinots). He opined that higher-elevation sites – even though cooler – seemed to him favored in 2011, presumably on account of the important role played by wind in concentrating flavors everywhere in the Willamette in October of that year. And wind was certainly critical in helping counteract what Horner claims were two of the toughest challenges of this vintage: rot, especially that hidden – along with pink berries – inside clusters; and clusters themselves so heavy that as he quipped “even at one to a shoot, your vines were sometime over-cropped!” Virtually all of the 2011 Pinots here are around 12.5% in finished alcohol, and that’s even after selective chaptalization. An elevage of 11-12 months in 35-45% new barrels is pretty much the routine for Erath Pinot. (For more about this historic winery; its vineyards; and Horner’s approach, consult my issue 202 introduction.) Tel. (503) 538-3318

A blend from five sites farmed by Erath and dominated by Dundee Hills or very nearby terroir, their 2010 Pinot Noir Estate Selection displays tart sour cherry with a pungent overlay of green herbs. Speaking of greenness, this is only borderline ripe but is certainly refreshing and persistent in a relatively simply way. I would never have guessed that 35% of the barrels were new or that it remained in them for even as long as 14 months. Perhaps a couple of years in bottle will bring some complexity though I don’t fancy this every acquiring much textural allure or any sense of richness. “I’m trying for something in the style of older Oregon Pinot Noir,” says Horner of this cuvee, “a little lighter and dominated by fresh red fruits.” Well, that it is, and attractively so. Dick Erath realized his first crop (all of 200 cases) in 1972 from vines he planted in 1969 after moving his family north from California. When he approached his new neighbor Jim Maresh about the prospects for wine growing along Worden Hill Road west of Dundee, the latter (85 years old today and still farming) says he sized Erath up as some hippy peddling a dream, but seeing as Maresh was sitting on 200 tons of unsold prunes, he figured he had little to lose by acting on Erath’s intuitions, and in went vines that would become one of North America’s great viticultural treasures. Within a decade, Erath had reached 10,000 cases; then took only four further vintages to triple his output, while continuing to showcase fruit from his Dundee Hills neighborhood. Since then – and since Erath sold his eponymous winery to Ste. Michelle Wine Estates in 2006 – production has soared to well over 100,000 cases. Pharmacist-turned-vintner Gary Horner – who took charge of winemaking responsibilities here in 2003 – remains at that post, and the Erath portfolio continues to showcase sites (now totaling 120 acres) farmed under their close supervision, including a clutch that inform single-site bottlings. (Prince Hill Vineyard, along Worden Hill Rd., is the only remaining actual Erath estate vineyard.) I tasted only a subset of the winery’s recent releases with Horner, whose approach in the cellar includes a for Oregon rare reliance on micro-oxygenation (which, along with cross-flow filtration is – a bit oddly and surely misleadingly – the only topic addressed under “Winemaking Technique” on the Erath website). Other distinctive features of vinification here include there being only a brief cold soak, and a portion of most Pinots being fermented in closed tanks. No musts have been acidulated since 2006. “All Pinots are treated virtually identically,” Horner explains, so as to be able to focus as a winemaking team on the characteristics particular to each site. Summing up his intentions, he told me “I’m trying to keep our style, but turn up the volume.” Tel. (503) 538-3318