One glass demijohn of Knoll 2007 Traminer Trockeneeerenauslese smells like a distilled essence of rose petal that might be as valuable a perfume as it is a wine. Subtly oily and creamy rich in texture, this elixir’s faintly bitter notes of citrus rind and coffee are perfectly folded along with brown spices into the rose syrup, nougat, and butter-cream. It displays the buoyancy, refinement, and focused penetration of which the best Yellow Traminer is capable. Truly ennobled, and seemingly powered by mysterious springs of acidity, it might well prove more profound than I imagine, and might well improve for a decade or more.Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700