From the corresponding Beerenauslese harvest were picked out selected shriveled berries to inform a 2007 Gruner Veltliner Trockenbeerenauslese. Peaches in syrup and candied pineapple are struck by an aggressively pungent and faintly fungal manifestation of botrytis, but on the palate this could not be more different from the B.A., offering a flatteringly creamy texture, subtle caramelization, yet at the same time (and without clashing) a positively vivacious element of fresh fruit juicy. This should make a fascinating “dessert wine” to enjoy for the next ten or a dozen years. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700