Readers looking for something slightly off-dry should check out the 2009 Muscat. It offers a generous perfume of tropical fruits and honeysuckle followed by a medium-bodied, fresh, lively style that is never cloying in spite of some residual sugar. It is good to see Randall Grahm return to his roots. People often forget that despite his clever newsletters and obvious gift at turning a phrase and getting most wine journalists to be seduced by his slick prose, for many years he was, in fact, making industrial quantities (nearly 450,000 cases) of mediocre wines. Thankfully, this appears to be changing. Hopefully Grahm, who is a fascinating character, has decided to do what he did best in the mid-eighties ... make exciting wines from generally unusual and under-rated varietals.Tel. (831) 425-4518
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