Roasted spices, coal, and blackberries are found in the nose of the 2003 Pinot Noir Arcus Vineyard. A thick, intense, full-bodied behemoth, it unleashes asphalt-laced dark berries on the palate. Though elegance and harmony are foreign to this brooding wine, it impresses due to its depth and concentration of fruit. Drink it between 2008 and 2015. www.bergstromwines.com; tel. (503) 554-0468