A bunker buster of a wine. Massive cherry fruit, flavored with cinnamon, rich cola, cocoa and toasty oak. Explodes on the palate. Yet gaining age: softly expressive, gently complex, a wine of opposites. Delicate and authoritative. Sensual. At its peak now and for the next 3 years.——S.H.(6/1/2005)—— 95