A beautiful wine whose plum fruit is juicy and pure. Creme brulee rounds the fruit out on the palate, and lingers on the nose, where there’s also some cocoa. Balanced, restrained and well behaved, with the capacity to make some noise. Absolutely drinkable now, but one of those wines that you’ll just be sad to see go. ——D.T.(2/1/2004)—— 94