Brundlmayer’s 2006 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang, coming from his westernmost and coolest site for this grape, preserves a deliciously crisp cress-like aroma and bite that are missing from most 2006s. Analytically, the acids are rather low here (though not nearly so low as in 2003, Brundlmayer points out) but the wine still offers lift and juicy refreshment of ripe, herb-tinged melon in its finish, along with clarity and floral nuance. Experience strongly suggests that this will be even better in a couple of years and enjoyable for 3-5 years.In 2006, Willi Brundlmayer really displayed mastery of his sites. While their fruits all ripened to high potential alcohol such as we have become used to in most vintages at this estate, this was by and large without detrimental effects, and the wines display clarity and refinement without heat or bitterness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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