The 2006 Das Beste vom Gruner Veltliner is, as usual with this bottling, technically an Auslese, a fact noted in tiny print on the label. Equally predictably, the alcohol is relatively high (14.3%, at a mere five grams residual sugar), yet there is neither roughness nor heat. Rich and intense, this year’s version nevertheless is firmer and shapelier as well as more vivacious than typical. Pineapple and zesty tangerine inform an ester-rich, high-toned aroma, and are tinged with salt and white pepper on the palate. This finishes with luscious generosity of fruit and nicely integrated salinity and pungency, even not with enormous complexity. Not only is it an imposing treat to drink now, I suspect it will improve over the next several years. Like many growers along the Danube, Gerard Malat began harvesting already in mid-September to insure some light-weight wines appropriate to summer, 2008 consumption, and finished at the end of October. From three sites in the Hohlgraben,Importers: Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870.