His 2004 Gruner Veltliner Rafesetzen represents just the sort of outstanding value that has brought me back to this address year after year. At a modest 12.5% alcohol, this wine manages to incorporate an abundance of ripe flavors and retain mouthwatering vivacity. In the bouquet we have red currants, cress, and lime. The palate is brothy and medium-bodied, suggesting root vegetables, herbs and notes of the aforementioned tart red berries and cress. The long finishing effect here is low-key, soothing, even and satisfying. I guarantee you will get to the bottom of a bottle of this quickly, and that it will be even more interesting – its bargain price notwithstanding – in two or three year’s time. Neumayer, located in the little known Traisental south of Krems, has been one of my personal favorite sources for Austrian wine, so it is a pleasure to report that he now has an American importer. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800
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