It was no Eiswein year, says Donnhoff by way of introducing his 2007 Oberhaueser Brucke Riesling Eiswein. Okay, we had a really good year, I told myself, and I don't have to do this. Having grapes still hanging out there is an annoyance. But he let some hang anyway, and just as his agreement with his wife Gabi was about to expire - by Christmas it has to be over, I promise! - a hard frost descended. Black tea, and intensely tart grapefruit and grapefruit rind, pineapple, and red currant inform the penetrating nose and almost jumpy, dynamic palate of this dramatically distinctive Eiswein. Apricot paste and honey lend an Eszencia-like aura. Each time I tasted this, I had a sense that its wiring wasn't quite right yet, but the charge was enough to electrocute and the brightness was almost a glare. Time will tell what it becomes.While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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