Malat bottles three grades of Riesling – two from single sites – of which his 2004 Riesling Silberbuhel, from a mineral-rich site in Mautern that is nearly always able to hang late, represents the middle. This wine displays spiced, baked apple, honey and herbs in the nose (reminding one of the degree to which Gruner Veltliner and Riesling can resemble one another this vintage). The flavors are juicy and engaging on the palate, with apple-like fruit, subtle suggestions of salty and pungent minerality, and honeyed richness balanced by piquant nuttiness and refreshing acidity. The bracing, tingling mineral expressions that accompany the juicy fruit and honeyed notes of sur maturite in the finish here are hard to describe but fascinating and unmistakable. Various importers including Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870
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