Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Lamm Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria

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Moosbrugger’s 2005 Gruner Veltliner Lamm offers imposing richness and baked-in flavors such as the deep, heat-trapping site and the vintage might lead one to expect. Peach, baked apple, fennel, and parsnip are nicely framed by refreshing citrus and wet stone minerality. This finishes hugely rich, but incorporates a load of salt and stone minerality and its ripeness doesn’t weigh it down, but rather offers dazzling interplay of flavors and plenty of refreshment to call forth the next sip. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Urgestein ($23.00; 86), 2004 Riesling Tradition ($41.00; 86+?), 2004 St. Laurent Klassik (not available; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300