Lustau East India Solera Sherry, Andalucia, Spain

盧士濤東印度索雷拉雪利酒

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Readers looking for something weighty, sweet, and provocative should check out the non-vintage East India Solera. A blend of soleras averaging 15 to 50 years of age, it boasts a dark amber color as well as a huge nose of melted toffee, caramel, figs, and prunes. This over-the-top yet surprisingly vibrant (because of good acidity) effort is best drunk as dessert at the end of a meal. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

This traditional wine from Lustau is made in the Cream style. It’s dark and pretty, with PX-ish prune and caramel aromas. It’s not as thick as Pedro Ximenez, and thus isn’t syrupy. But it’s certainly rich and full of cookie, molasses, maple and brown sugar flavors. For anyone who likes a sweet Sherry that’s balanced, this is a good place to go.——M.S.(2/1/2009)—— 90