1997 Pinot Noir Martinelli Vineyard Reserve is performing terrifically from bottle. In a recent blind tasting with some of America's finest Pinot Noirs and three of my favorite Burgundy grand crus from the 1990 vintage, it was the group's (not mine) favorite. It overloads the olfactory senses with kirsch, plum, black cherry fruit, and smoky oak. Full-bodied, heady, and lush, it should be drunk over the next 5-8 years. Tel. (707) 525-0570; fax (707) 525-9463