The 2007 Te Koko was barrel-fermented using a small percentage of new French oak (less than 10%) and natural yeasts. It undergoes spontaneous malo-lactic followed by lees stirring, which no doubt contributes to the texture and keeps the buttery/creamy character from overpowering. It presents pronounced aromas of tropical fruits, pineapple and passion fruit, with a slightly funky character and some sulphide/struck match hints. After a few moments, yeasty/toasty scents emerge plus some warm grapefruit, orange blossom and a touch of cedar. Medium-full bodied and rich, the palate reveals a satiny texture almost unknown in Marlborough with a long creamy finish. It’s very tempting to drink now but will benefit from cellaring, drinking best from 2012-2017+.
I generally agree with Neal Martin’s previous comment about some of Cloudy Bay’s wines produced over the last couple of vintages perhaps being “a notch behind other Marlborough producers”. However, I did find some very good wines to recommend during my recent visit. Trust me, my visit was not typically befitting of the fanfare laid-on by a Champagne House with the soft light, foie gras canapes and gentle tinkle of classical music playing in the background. White winemaker Tim Heath and I stood tasting in a stoically sterile white tasting room and deconstructed his recent work over the course of just an hour or so. I’ll cut to the chase and state that in the cold, hard, clinical light of that tasting room, I think that Tim is making some very positive moves towards filling some very big shoes.
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