Neumayer Zwirch Gruner Veltliner, Traisental, Austria

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Neumayer’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Zwirch smells of yellow split pea, diverse herbs, and ripe melon. Lusher and riper on the palate than its siblings, with a silken texture and a cool, citric streak of refreshment, this finishes with impressive length and refinement. Low yields drove the alcohol to 13% – ordinarily a normal level, but high in the context of this Neumauer vintage – yet once again we have a sense of levity that makes one think “light” and mean it in a positive sense. This should be fun to follow and versatile at table for at least 5-6 years. On account of the hot, dry July, Neumayer says he only did one spraying against mildew and almost no manicuring of the foliage. He picked well into October, since he did not find he was risking such high potential alcohol as his 2006s had reached already in the early days of that month. These wines have what he calls the “cracking” of acidity that invigorates and refreshes. (Note that because of a change in importers at the beginning of this year, prices on these wines were not yet available to me, and the wines themselves will only begin arriving later in the year. Readers should consult my reviews of the 2006s in issue 177 for a ballpark idea of eventual retail prices.) The wines of this years’ Riesling collection chez Neumayer were all very slow to ferment and ended up completely dry at the upper twelve’s in alcohol.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com