A little soft, with inconsistent early aromas giving way to roasted plum and black-fruit flavors. The more time you give it the better it gets, but at $55 this Syrah falls squarely into the category of underwhelming. It’s rich and has satisfying sweet-fruit flavors, but it doesn’t have much structure nor does it register as the top-shelf red that it’s price tag suggests.——M.S.(9/1/2008)—— 86