Schloss Gobelsburg 'Gobelsburger' Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria

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Moosbrugger’s 2005 Gruner Veltliner Gobelsburger once again represents a sensational value. Scents of flowers and hay introduce a clear, bright, juicy, melony, limey mouthful of wine that is a touch lush, a tad invigorating, carpets the palate with flowers, herb, melon, and pepper, yet ultimately, soothingly, simply thirst-quenchingly satisfies. To obtain results like this for the price demands keenly honed agricultural and artisanal skills. If you couldn’t drink your way through a couple of cases of this in the course of a year, then either you don’t like Gruner Veltliner or you’re a Gruner Veltliner snob – a concept that strikes me as oxymoronic. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Urgestein ($23.00; 86), 2004 Riesling Tradition ($41.00; 86+?), 2004 St. Laurent Klassik (not available; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300