Kuhling-Gillot Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Rheinhessen, Germany

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The Kuhling-Gillot 2010 Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs Wurzelecht – as usual, labeled (at least, on its official “back label”) to refer to the ungrafted vines that gave birth to it, and (in a practice begun with the 2008) not destined for release until this coming March – exhibits aromatically a sweeter sense of ripeness than its two immediate Grosses Gewachs siblings, featuring juicy tangerine rather than lemon and a bouquet of orange blossom and freesia rather than narcissus. That noted, the present wine still comes to the palate firm, extremely dry, and tart-edged, so that – blessedly informed by sheer citric juiciness though it is – it’s impossible to avoid applying the “a”-word, even if the austerity averred is somehow handsome; but if one has patience in pairing and doesn’t trust the wine’s evolution for more than 3-4 year without verification, the results should leave those who like high, almost electric acidity coupled to adamant dryness delighted. It would be interesting to compare the stage this proves to be at on release with this September showing. I can’t really see it softening significantly let alone turning significantly more generous from a few more months in bottle.In Carolin Gillot’s absence I tasted with her ever-insightful father (and one of Rheinhessen’s foremost qualitative pioneers) Roland Gillot, who relates that the estate didn’t begin picking Riesling until October 11, and finished November 3, “by which time,” he insists, “most of our neighbors had already finished their harvests. But in my long experience, if you wait, at some point stable weather will arrive. I’m also convinced from experience that the organically farmed vineyards (like his family’s) have many fewer problems in a difficult year like 2010, when what botrytis we did get was pure,” i.e. as opposed to mingled with Penicillium or engendering acetification. (I tasted neither the latest generic Kuhling-Gillot estate Riesling nor, especially regrettably, a dry Scheurebe, because the latter – in perhaps a good sign for this nowadays generally too little-loved grape – had sold out without remnant by the time of my September visit.)Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799