Josef Ehmoser Von den Terrassen Gruner Veltliner, Wagram, Austria

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Sugar snap peas, French beans and fresh lime combine for a classy nose and a palate to which cucumber-like slippery juiciness and cooling refreshment lend further appeal. Lime zest and white pepper contribute piquant energy to a juicily sustained, subtly salt- and chalk-tinged finish. “Even at this basic level, we’re not looking to make ‘easy-drinking’ Grüner Veltliner,” remarked Ehmoser, using the English expression. “Every wine should be a character.” This one certainly is!