Readers looking for a California version of the Mourvedre-dominated French Bandols should check out the dark ruby-hued 2004 Mr. Moreved, a blend of primarily Mourvedre with a dollop of Grenache. A brilliant, although controversial offering, it exhibits a singular, distinctive bouquet of damp earth, truffles, underbrush, forest floor, black cherries, and raspberries. In the mouth, there are loads of flowers, blueberries, and briery, berry fruit, medium to full body, and light to moderate tannin. It is a gorgeous red to drink over the next 5-7 years. Tel. (805) 714-5057
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