La Sirena Barrett Vineyard Syrah, Napa Valley, USA

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The home vineyard Syrah, the 2004 Syrah Barrett Vineyard is surprisingly elegant for one of the hotter areas of Napa Valley. This medium-bodied wine reveals somewhat angular tannins, but good black currant and cherry notes intermixed with hints of chocolate, pepper, and spice. Tel. (707) 942-1105; Fax (707) 942-9390

From Heidi Barrett’s estate vineyard in Calistoga, this Syrah is very rich and appealing. What it lacks in complex subtlety it makes up for in immediate chocolate-inspired blackberry jam and mushu plum flavors. Firmly tannic, it might age for a while, but will show best now through 2012.——S.H.(12/31/2008)—— 91