A Brundlmayer 2009 Gruner Veltliner Lamm Auslese rendered from a mixture of healthy and botrytized fruit is intriguingly and effusively scented with strawberry; honeydew melon liqueur; and nut oils. Lush and seductively soothing yet buoyant and preserving a welcome core of sheer refreshment, it finishes with deftly-, discreetly-integrated 20 grams of residual sugar and long-lingering palate and lip cling of toasted nuts, honey, melon liqueur, and strawberry jam. This will probably be best enjoyed on its own though perhaps some creative pairing will succeed. It's not that the sense of sweetness will get in the way of this but simply that the flavors are so intensely fruity and the wine seemingly so self-sufficient. I would not be at all surprised to witness it remaining lovely for a decade or more. Despite the relatively short crop in 2010, Brundlmayer notes that volumes were not inordinately impacted at the upper level of his portfolio, and that he expects as usual, if not more so, to take time with the release of the top Gruner Veltliner. (Brundlmayer is also among the very few Austrian growers to - largely for the benefit of his foreign customers - re-release selected wines after they have had a number of years in bottle; and he releases virtually no reds until they have enjoyed significant bottle age.) For now though, 2010 seems to be a collection that reflects its vintage's challenges and in which Riesling from the Heiligenstein is clearly the star. Brundlmayer's 2009s - the whites, at least - are more uniformly excellent. (He won-t begin showing me 2009 reds until next June.) What's more, some sort of miracle, the like of which I have never before witnessed at this address, seems to have taken place under the auspices of noble rot (and those sweet 2009s should come our way in the next year or two). The high quality and fascination of Brundlmayer's diverse sparkling cuvees is worth once again noting, even if I have omitted publishing detailed notes and small-lot designations for what are always officially non-vintage wines. It's also worth singling-out an all"2007 cuvee of Pinot and Chardonnay with a bit of Gruner Veltliner that was bottled Extra Brut "-though believe, me," notes Brundlmayer, "we try-out nearly every sort of dosage and were surprised that this performed better without" - a wine whose combination of herbal, vegetal, nutty, and mineral tones offers subtly delicious -food- for thought.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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