The 2009 Pinot Noir Benoist Ranch shows the darker side of Pinot in its black cherries, plums, savory herbs, tar, ash and game. There is a hint of wildness to the 2009 that flows through to the virile, imposing finish. This deceptively round, supple Pinot is supported by plenty of structure. The Benoist Ranch spent 16 months in French oak. It could use another year or two in bottle as well. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This is a fabulous set of wines from Chateau St. Jean, winemaker Margo Van Staaveren and her team. From top to bottom, these wines deliver tons of value and character.Tel. (707) 833-4134, www.chateaustjean.com