Weingut Prieler Leithaberg Pinot Blanc, Burgenland, Austria

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Of course, the supply of Seenberg Pinot Blanc is unfortunately limited, but this year there is a 2006 Leithaberg from Pinot Blanc as well. Grown on schist and gneiss mingled with chalk in the Leitha Hills northwest of the Prieler winery, and vinified in fuder, it reflects its cooler origins in a very different sort of Pinot Blanc. (“Leithaberg” itself has been protected by a large group of area vintners who each agree to bottle one white and one red – neither of them with prominent wood – under that name.) Savory and mysteriously mineral and carnal in the nose in a manner reminiscent of Chablis, this fills the mouth with ripe melon, apple, nut oils, and saline fish and chicken stock. Waxy in texture, and with a sense of grip no doubt influenced by pre-fermentative skin contact this utterly fascinating wine is bound to become even more interesting when you play with it at table and chart its evolution. While this wine has no track record, that of the Seeberg and of this grape variety in other wise hands, suggests one can certainly anticipate 3-5 years of fun at least. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300