The 2009 Kavalieros is a single-vineyard, 100% Assyrtiko offering from Sigalas, aged on the lees for 18 months. On opening, this seemed a bit more delicate and subdued than either the 2009 or 2010 Santorini (both reviewed this issue). I did what I normally do to some big, young Assyrtikos - I gave it lots of aeration by decanting it. I was delighted to see it evolve, showing more penetration on the finish. It is a wine with more finesse than Sigalas' Santorini, some delicacy and definition, but it is subtly persistent and does not fade. Stick with it - it shows extremely well in time. I'm not sure I saw the best it had to offer until it was into the 60sF and had been open for nearly two hours, at which point the texture seemed rich and velvety. Every time I tasted it, I was increasing the score. Drink now-2019. Sigalas is one of Greece's finest white wine producers - in fact, a short list candidate for the best. I would like to take credit for that conclusion, but there is not much dissent here. This producer is universally acclaimed for his skill with Assyrtiko of all types - dry, barrel fermented and sweet - and I can only climb on the bandwagon. Sigalas is simply a master with this grape. I would say that this was one of the most impressive Assyrtiko lineups I've had - except that I had a Sigalas vertical before at the winery.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211
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