The 2010 Acusp is a Pinot Noir cultivated at 1,000 metres and fermented in small stainless steel vessels with malolactic in oak, where it is aged for 10 months (50% new). It has a deep ruby colour. The nose is well-defined with crisp blackberry and raspberry fruit with hints of limestone and pressed flowers. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannins. This is a tightly coiled Pinot Noir reminiscent of a Cote de Beaune with a crisp, peppery, mineral-rich finish. It should age extremely well and is an impressive execution of the variety. Drink now-2020+.
It was a long, long drive to visit Castell d’Encus, located in the foothills of the Pyrenees at almost 1,000 metres altitude at the end of a never-ending winding lane that should be sign-posted “middle of nowhere.” It was 10:45 p.m. when we finally arrived in the pitch black. Winemaker, former director of Torres and partner in Priorat’s “Ferrer-Bobet,” Raul Bobet came to greet me. It had been a long day. I was knackered. My palate was asking where the hell dinner had gone? Fortunately, my palate was about to taste a portfolio of extremely accomplished, delicious, intellectually satisfying wines that formed one of the highlights of my trip. This is an example of extreme, obsessive winemaking, Raul often asking himself what the hell he was doing. What inspired him was the chance discovery of “rock fermenters.” These are medieval vessels carved into the stone that must have been used by the local monks. They were using gravity long before the Bordelais were crowing about it. Raul has trialled these fermenters and is now beginning to ferment his entire portfolio in them. It gives a new meaning to the word: “minerality.” (Check the winery’s website to see the fermenters: www.encuseng.weebly.com)
Importer: Steve Miles Selections, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 495-3811 and available through several European agents.
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