The 2005 Weissburgunder Der Wein Vom Stein smells of raw hazelnuts and a whiff of wood smoke. Luscious and juicy on the palate, exuding baked apple and hazelnut, it manages to be light on its feet and refreshing despite 14.5% alcohol, and finishes energetically with clear fruit and chalky minerality. It might gain some complexity with time and will certainly prove versatile at the dinner table for at least 6-8 years. Incidentally, I was not at all persuaded by Neumayer’s rather obviously sweet and graceless first attempt at a Weissburgunder Beerenauslese. Once again, Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700