The 1997 Zinfandel Bridgehead Vineyard is palatable because of its rich fruit, but this example possesses searing acidity levels that compress its textures. In 1999, it is beyond my comprehension that anyone could endorse acid/PH levels that produce a harsh, compressed, lean wine. In many ways, this wine represents what is still wrong with much of California wine making - excessive additions of acidity that compress a wine's texture, making it abrupt, shrill, and undrinkable. Don't get me wrong. If readers enjoy painfully acidic wines, they will get more of a thrill from this wine than I did. It's sad because Cline Cellars has done a marvelous job over recent years. I just do not understand this departure in style. I also noted on the back labels that the PH's for most of the wines are in the 3.3 range, which is wickedly low, suggesting unbelievably powerful, tart acid. What a shame. Tel. (707) 935-4310
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