Kuhling-Gillot 'Oppenheim' Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany

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Kuhling-Gillot 2010 Oppenheim Riesling trocken – like the 2009 so-labeled, a pure Oppenheimer Sacktrager bottled in lieu of Sacktrager Grosses Gewachs, something Gillots now report that they do not plan to offer again – displays a compact, pithy, dried pit fruit-dominated personality, with piquancy of fruit pits and citrus rind prominently on display. While the alcohol here is only 13.5%, there is a slight sense of warmth and seeming reinforcement of the aforementioned bitter components, which in a firmly-textured, big-boned, high acid, analytically dry Riesling is – let’s face it – an invitation to austerity. Still, you have to respect this for its sheer abundance as well as persistence of flavor, and with some effort I’m sure one could arrive at a few synergistic food pairings over the next couple of years. (No corresponding “village” Niersteiner bottling was essayed in this low-yielding vintage when, according to Gillot senior, their entire Nierstein Riesling crop was found worthy of Grosses Gewachs status.) In Carolin Gillot’s absence I tasted with her ever-insightful father (and one of Rheinhessen’s foremost qualitative pioneers) Roland Gillot, who relates that the estate didn’t begin picking Riesling until October 11, and finished November 3, “by which time,” he insists, “most of our neighbors had already finished their harvests. But in my long experience, if you wait, at some point stable weather will arrive. I’m also convinced from experience that the organically farmed vineyards (like his family’s) have many fewer problems in a difficult year like 2010, when what botrytis we did get was pure,” i.e. as opposed to mingled with Penicillium or engendering acetification. (I tasted neither the latest generic Kuhling-Gillot estate Riesling nor, especially regrettably, a dry Scheurebe, because the latter – in perhaps a good sign for this nowadays generally too little-loved grape – had sold out without remnant by the time of my September visit.)Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799