I have tasted a considerable subset of the wines produced in the last several vintages by the enormous Winzer Krems coop, and their 2007 Gruner Veltliner Wachtberg Kellermeister Privat offers a good example of the progress they are making, especially in what – while still very reasonably priced – constitute their top-level wines. As the directors are more than willing to admit, too few of their small grower-members still endure the hardships of farming the stony, steeply terraced slopes around Stein (as opposed to the gentler loess slopes on the east side of Krems, which members of this coop dominate). Low-toned lentil and nut oil flavors here are tinged with saline, scallop-like mineral notes. Juicy and polished on the palate, this finishes with a lift and lip-smacking refreshment that suggest less than its 13.5% alcohol. I would plan to enjoy it within the next 2-3 years.
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