Weingut Tement Steinbach Gelber Muskateller Erste STK Lage, Sudsteiermark, Austria

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Tement’s 2007 Gelber Muskateller Steinbach shines this year, a bit in the way that the Hochkittenberg did in 2006, offering the primary juiciness and sheer sap that can sometimes be missing in wines from this inherently brusque grape. Orange zest, pungent herbs, and smoky Sechuan pepper inflect primary apricot and citrus fruit, and this persistent Muskateller should be worth following for 2-3 years. Although I was not in Sudsteiermark last year, I had a chance to taste most of Manfred Tement’s recent releases with him in Vienna.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The 2006 Gelber Muskateller Steinbach – grown on sand – features pungent sage and bitter lemon zest in a dense yet bracing rendition of Muskateller that practically scours your palate in the finish. As an aperitif, this alternative to smelling salts would probably revive the appetite of even the most disinterested diner, but the Hochkittenberg bottling is more complex, complete, and satisfyingly sappy. Tement’s expansion has not stopped at the Slovenian border, and in 2006 he acquired the neighboring holdings of the Carmelites – where his father long worked as winemaker – and since replanted their 90 year old patchwork of vine varieties to insure more Zieregg Sauvignon for the future. Tement has begun using glass stoppers on his wines in lieu of corks. Given the extent of his offerings and given that I travel to Styria only every other year, I cannot pretend to have tasted Tement’s entire 2005 and 2006 collections, but only the subset (perhaps half) that he chose to show me in the time we had available. Tement is modifying his approach with Sauvignon – especially in the top sites – having decided that lower yields and the consequent ability to harvest somewhat earlier are more advantageous (not to mention less risky) than the long hang time he has traditionally practiced with this variety.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing (www.weygandtmetzler.com), Unionville, PA; tel. 610-486-0800

The 2005 Gelber Muskateller Steinbach from Styria’s top vintner Manfred Tement smells alluringly of fresh apricot, orange blossom, and sage. Glossy and satisfyingly mouthfilling in a way that this variety seldom is, yet lively and bracing as is expected of it, this exhibits sap and stamina that only a few of the 2005s I tasted from the region possess. A real finish, much less one as bell-clear as this, with lemon peel, apricot, sage and tangerine, cannot be assumed with Muskateller, a variety than can tend toward the brusque and abrupt. Tement’s flagship Sauvignon Blanc from the Zieregg was a bit bitter, warm, and aromatically shut down when I tasted it but certainly was full of stuffing and may well simply need time. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The 2001 Gelber Muskateller Steinbach has a gorgeous nose of orange blossoms, raspberries, and red currants. It is light to medium-bodied, loaded with exotic fruit flavors, and has beautiful freshness (from some trapped CO2). This complements its rich, ripe personality. Drink this wine over the next 2 years. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2000 Gelber Muskateller Steinbach, produced from 4 year old vines (2000 was this vineyard's first vintage), reveals kumquat and spice aromas. It is easygoing and uncomplicated but its spicy white fruit flavors have nice palate presence. Drink it over the next 12 months. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700