Tement Sauvignon Blanc Sernau

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Vinified in the same manner as the Grassnitzberg, but grown on gravel soil (and destined to have remained in cask – whence I tasted it – until January), the 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Sernau evinces lovely and distinctive floral notes. Lime, blackcurrant, and gooseberry offer an interesting interchange with the wood, with a toasty note seguing into nut oil flavors and bitter herbal and citrus zest notes in the finish. I find it tough to judge the barrel evolution of this relatively new cuvee, but the wine certainly shows promise. (The 2005 version was rather woody and bitter.)Tement’s expansion has not stopped at the Slovenian border, and in 2006 he acquired the neighboring holdings of the Carmelites – where his father long worked as winemaker – and since replanted their 90 year old patchwork of vine varieties to insure more Zieregg Sauvignon for the future. Tement has begun using glass stoppers on his wines in lieu of corks. Given the extent of his offerings and given that I travel to Styria only every other year, I cannot pretend to have tasted Tement’s entire 2005 and 2006 collections, but only the subset (perhaps half) that he chose to show me in the time we had available. Tement is modifying his approach with Sauvignon – especially in the top sites – having decided that lower yields and the consequent ability to harvest somewhat earlier are more advantageous (not to mention less risky) than the long hang time he has traditionally practiced with this variety.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing (www.weygandtmetzler.com), Unionville, PA; tel. 610-486-0800

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The 2001 Sauvignon Blanc Sernau, produced from a vineyard located in front of Jaglhof, a lovely Styrian hotel/restaurant, displays smoky grapefruit and gooseberry aromas. Candied grapefruits, apples, and minerals can be found in this dense, lively wine's character. This medium-bodied wine is rich, fresh (it retained some CO2) and possesses a long finish that reveals a trace of alcoholic heat. This excellent wine should be drunk over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

There are only 500 liters of the 2000 Sauvignon Blanc Sernau (which is usually produced in the 3000 liter range) because a winery intern inadvertently hooked up the wrong hose to a tank, leading to the loss of 2,500 liters of potentially outstanding wine. Its demure floral nose leads to a thick, medium-bodied personality. This broad wine has outstanding potential as it is chock-full of lush pears and apples. It is intense, possesses excellent depth of fruit and has a long, smoky, toasty finish. Projected maturity: 2004-2011. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700