Valtuille de Abajo Sketch, Rias Baixas, Spain

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The exception is the 2009 Sketch, an Albarino sourced from a parcel harvested 1-2 weeks later than all the other vineyards. It was fermented and aged (without malolactic) in two 700-liter barrels for 12 months followed by 60 days of aging in the bottle at 30 meters under the sea. It offers up an enthralling bouquet of mineral, saline, floral, tropical, and marzipan elements. Intense, complex, impeccably balanced, and remarkably lengthy, this is as good as Albarino gets. Bodegas y Vinedos Raul Perez is the hangout of Spain’s most visionary vigneron, Raul Perez. These latest releases only reinforce the legend.Importer: Ole Imports, New Rochelle, NY; INK”http://www.oleimports.com”www.oleimports.com

Bodegas y Vinedos Raul Perez’s latest collection includes one white wine, the 2008 Sketch. One might think that $74 is an excessive price to pay for a bottle of Albarino, but this is like no other. The grapes were sourced from a single vineyard of 40-year-old vines, fermented and aged in two 700-liter barrels for 12 months with no malolactic fermentation. The bottled wine was then aged for 60 days at 100 feet under the sea. Light gold-colored, the nose surrenders a whiff of sea salt, mineral, baking spices, lemon, lime, and spring flowers. Creamy textured, very intense, and voluminous on the palate, it has the acid structure to blossom for another 1-2 years and drink well over the next 5-6. Tasting is believing! These wines have no track record of longevity but the balance and fruit quality suggest to me that my aging estimates are probably conservative. Of course, time will tell.Importer: Ole Imports, New Rochelle, NY; www.ole imports.com

The 2006 Sketch (100 cases produced, 40 for the USA) is the finest Albarino of my tastings (as well as the most expensive). The wine was fermented and raised in egg-shaped 1500-liter barrels with 12 months of batonnage followed by aging in the bottle for 60 days at 30 meters under the sea. Medium straw-colored, the wine offers up an alluring bouquet of mineral, pear, citrus, melon, and lemon meringue. This is followed by an elegant, harmonious, intensely flavored Albarino with outstanding depth and length. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. These are brilliant, artisanal, hand-crafted wines that words simply cannot begin to describe. They must be experienced to be believed.Importer: Patrick Mata, Ole Imports; www.oleimports.com