Weingut Prieler Pinot Noir, Burgenland, Austria

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Prieler’s 2006 Pinot Noir exhibits cherry jam and sugared almonds, its superficial sweetness contrasting with a strong herbal and licorice component. Juicy and not at all stiff on the palate (even if slightly gritty in tannin) it seems to pull up a bit short and simple in the back, but will be well worth revisiting after it has had a bit more time in bottle.The quality of 2006 for Burgenland’s premier red variety fully merited the late bottling practiced by Prielers, with the result that I have still not tasted from bottle three that were still in cask until last September.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Prieler’s 2005 Pinot Noir demonstrates her progress with this fickle grape. Despite rainy conditions, the bitter-edged fruits here are very black (blackberry, cassis) and perfectly ripe. Roasted, low-toned charred meat, black tea, chocolate, and black fruits inform an imposing finish, not strongly marked by wood or over-extraction, as Prieler Pinots at one time tended to be. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A sensuously Burgundian style of Pinot Noir, the tannins and wood aging a mere seasoning for the rich, but round, soft fruits. Great red berries, along with cherries, leave a layer of acidity.——R.V.(10/1/2007)—— 89