Bodenstein’s 2006 Gruner Veltliner Achleiten Stockkultur is technically halbtrocken (and thus, not Smaragd) because even though it has only eight grams of residual sugar, its acidity is more than two grams lower than that. These old vines (propagated in traditional fashion low to the ground and on a single stake or Stock) visibly inhabit a genetic world of their own, and the same can be said for the flavor of their grapes. Despite its enveloping richness, its exceedingly ripe plum, apricot, and blood orange flavors (along with beet root and rhubarb), its creamy, caressing richness of texture, and its mere 5.8 grams of acidity, this displays plenty of vivacity, juicy freshness, and lift. Notes of honey and apricot kernel and diverse mineral shadings add to the finishing complexity of this extraordinary wine. Although a track record does not exist for this wine (2005 was the inaugural vintage) I suspect it will be worth holding on to for at least 12-15 years.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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