But while the Rieslings did not convince me, Massoud’s 2003 Riesling Late Harvest was another matter. Smoky, charry botrytis manifestations are allied to pure quince preserve and apple jelly in the nose. The palate impression is positively ethereal, refined, with a clean cut of acidity balancing its richness of fruit and oiliness of texture. The finish of quince and apple jelly dusted with brown spices and drizzled with honey is pure and satisfying, if more relaxed than the initial palate impact leads one to anticipate. I would be remiss if I left the impression that Massoud’s impressive quality of botrytis wines from 2003 was typical. Several other vintages I sampled were interesting and attractive, but not on the same order. Tel. (631) 722-8800