The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon “Grand Vintage” – a wine far more interesting and sensually satisfying than the corresponding “white label” 2002 Cabernet – smells sweetly of cassis, cooked blueberries, sealing wax, talcum, and vanilla. Its full-bodied palate impression displays lots of sheer stuffing, a creamy texture and pliable tannins, and a layered complexity of diverse fruits, minerality, and high-toned spice that other Cabernet Sauvignons from Long Island fail to display. “There’s a huge microclimatic difference,” between this part of the Island and further east, explains Massoud, “because as the island gets wider, the wind warms up coming over the South fork and for Cabernet, a late season ripener, that makes all the difference. Usually we pick late October or early November, but it’s a race between that and the first killing frost.” I’d plan to follow this for at least eight or ten years. Tel. (631) 722-8800