Hatzidakis Santorini White, Santorini, Greece

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The 2010 Santorini, clocking in at 13.5%, is rather hard edged, with the piercing acidity one often sees on Santorini. It was fermented with indigenous wild yeast fermentation in tank and aged sur lie for 3-4 months. If you like them steely and pure, laced with minerality and stonewashed - this is for you. This was not so approachable when I saw it and it needed some time, showing a bit austere with modest charm. It made me recall the amusing comments to me in email (repeated from public comments) of Gai'a's owner, Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, that the wines of Santorini are "wines with claws," which he defined as bottlings that can be "aggressive & even 'hostile'" when young. Yet, it shows better and better with air, although it remains quite intense and utterly gripping on the finish. This has some finesse to go with its hard edge, but what you'll mostly notice early on is the hard edge. I thought the alcohol, although listed at only 13.5%, was noticeable early on, but it did not seem intrusive as I held it open and it warmed. I really liked how this showed as it evolved - but it may not be the best choice this summer. Drink now-2018. Importer: Trireme Imports, Huntersville, NC; tel. (704) 875-1973.

Subtle lemon spice and minerals on the nose lead into flavors of fresh lemon and orange, flowers and a touch of honeyed spice. The finish is spicy with a touch of bitter orange rind. A pretty wine with a refreshing character.——S.K.(3/1/2012)—— 85

The 2007 SANTORINI is 90% Assyrtiko, the rest a blend of Athiri and Aidani. It is bright and lively, feeling full in the mouth and lingering respectably. The acidity at the moment gives it a certain mouth puckering quality. It comes in at 13.5%. Drink now-2013. Importer: Trireme Imports, Huntersville, N.C.; tel: (704) 875-1973.