Feiler-Artinger Traminer Beerenauslese, Burgenland, Austria

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The Feiler-Artinger 2007 Traminer Beerenauslese tastes of salted, brown spiced caramel, peppermint candy, and lychee; is unusually creamy - virtually buttery - and free of bitterness for this grape; and finishes with remarkable refinement and delicacy. (I would have guessed less than its 11.5% alcohol, and far less than its 200 grams of residual sugar.) This striking and satisfying wine will probably keep for a half dozen or more years, but I wonder whether its caramel character might become overly-prominent. Feiler-Artinger's dry whites have generally not especially impressed me, but that is changing.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com

Aromas of lychees and spice follow through on the palate with ripe, spicy fruit, layering dry botrytis with richness. Light amounts of acidity suggest this is a wine which will age quickly. ——R.V.(5/1/2004)—— 88