Emmerich Knoll Traminer Beerenauslese

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The Knolls left a few rows of Yellow Traminer hanging until the 10th of November, and result was a 2007 Traminer Beerenauslese that evokes pickled watermelon rind, smoked pork, and black tea. Its lush, slightly sweet-sour, brown spice-saturated palate finishes with concentration and oily, perfumed persistence. This needs time for its sweetness to integrate, and perhaps for the flavors to focus. No doubt if will last more than a decade. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2005 Traminer Beeerenauslese, produced in minuscule quantities, smells of rose petal, candied citrus, and a hint of radish. Creamy and rich, yet bright and clear on the palate, it displays lovely poise, refinement, and refreshment in a long, billowing finish of flowers and citrus oils. I suspect this will age marvelously for more than a decade. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700