Knoll’s 2005 Muskateller Trockenbeerenauslese offers a penetrating nose of sage, fresh lemon, and apricot jam. On the palate too, apricot jam, herbal essences, and an extraordinarily concentrated fresh lemon acidity team up to generate a rapier finish that threatens to perform a vinous tonsillectomy. There is an enormously honeyed richness beneath the wine’s blazing, slash-and-burn superfice, and an elegance, juiciness, clarity, drive and purity of fruit that are exemplary. Knoll is reminded of his 1998 botrytis wines, but I think this beauty will age longer and even more persuasively that its 1998 counterparts. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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