Freie Weingaertner Wachau Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel

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The Domane Wachau 2007 Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel smells intensely and site-typically of apricots and their kernels. Oily-rich in texture and a bit severe on the palate, but clinging with impressive tenacity and bright citricity, this formidably concentrated wine needs to settle down and smooth out its rough edges, but will that happen? Given the nature of the vintage and of dealing with dozens and at times more than a hundred member growers with holdings in a given site, it is easy to see how the specter of botrytis would haunt the wines in this 2007 collection more than it does many others. And that being the case, Singerriedel is a prime candidate for magnifying that presence. Best to revisit this sometime in the coming year before further prognosticating. Roman Horvath and Heinz Frischengruber are on a roll now, so one wants to root for their retaining the marvelous value that has distinguished Freie Weingartner wines in their best periods, because top-flight Wachau wines at prices like theirs are scarcely available anywhere else. Yields on Gruner Veltliner in 2007 were a bit high for optimal, Frischengruber opines, but then, the yields in Riesling obviously came at the expense of botrytis. And it goes without saying that selectivity is a challenge in coop situations, even though one which the team here has previously proven themselves capable of meeting. Nearly 40% of production was picked as Steinfeder, a quality grade all but missing last year, and whose volume in this vintage permitted enhanced attention to the fruit that remained for Federspiel and Smaragd. All of the wines reviewed below are bottled under the -Domane Wachau- label.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700.

The best Riesling in this year’s collection is a 2005 Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel redolent of peaches and almonds, a pure expression of its site if not the last word on its terroir’s potential depth and complexity. This wine finishes with juicy, satisfying peachiness and plenty of polish. The corresponding Riesling Achleiten was tripped up by botrytis bitterness.Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Terrassen (not available; 84), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen ($11.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Kollmitz (not available; 84), 2005 Riesling Wachau ($11.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Federspiel Loibenberg (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700