Very ripe and fruity stuff here, a blast of jammy strawberry and black raspberry and spicy cola. Oak adds smoke and vanilla. It’s dry, with lusciously complex tannins and soft acids. It’s hard to describe how delicious it is. It’s not an ager, it’s a Lolita of a wine. Fortunately, it’s not against the law to enjoy it young. ——S.H.(12/15/2001)—— 93